Thanks to the new “Waldvogel” at the town of Bramberg am Wildkogel – which lies in the Upper Pinzgau District of Salzburg Province – is now leaving its own distinctive mark on the culinary map of Austria. Andreas Stotter, who matured professionally for several years as sous-chef to Heinz Reitbauer at the Steirereck, together with his wife, Birgit, has been successfully running a highly compelling restaurant at the Wildkogel Resort since December 1st. “Things got off to a very good start. We appeal to locals as well as winter guests alike”, says Andreas, who actually comes from the next town over, Neukirchen am Grossvenediger.
Though the chic lounge-style décor of the restaurant might have something to do with it, the main credit definitely goes to their cuisine: with a strong regional influence, ingredients from local producers, and dishes that are both refined and multifaceted. Merely to describe their point of view as Gasthaus cooking would be an injustice, since the level of their culinary artistry is undoubtedly worthy of international recognition.
For the barley risotto with herbal oyster mushrooms, Brussels sprouts and mountain cheese, the barley is more finely ground. By doing so, the barley’s naturally coarser texture is effectively refined, while the tender outer leaves of the Brussels sprouts, in combination with the mountain cheese, produce a gloriously creamy experience for the palate. The typical Pinzgau Oischneid-Nidei (small dumplings made of potato dough), with braised oxheart cabbage and salt-preserved lemons, become unashamedly fluffy and light at the hands of Andreas Stotter, and, together with the oxheart cabbage, are slightly seared in the pan, in combination producing a glorious aroma!
Fried chicken with pine mayo takes an unassuming step in the direction of Alpine avantgarde, though could become even more aromatically intensive. As for fish, Andreas Stotter places his trust in the products of Gut Dornau in Leobersdorf (Lower Austria), which also supplies the Steirereck. Unripened elderberries pickled in elderberry vinegar add a refined acidity to the sheatfish filet, while the potato-endive salad complements the dish with a creamy, bitter-sweet finish on the palate. The meal concludes with an utterly delectable highlight: a baked-apple sorbet with almond-milk cream, salty caramel and roasted almonds – simple and brilliant! That alone made the visit to the Waldvogel worthwhile!
During springtime and summer, Andreas and his team will roam the Salzach River Valley and the adjacent mountains, harvesting, preserving and refining what nature has in store. He also looks forward to closer cooperation with the market gardens of Hohe Tauern National Park. For every culinary aficionado, it will be exciting to watch the ongoing development of the Waldvogel and to stop in from time to time at Andreas Stotter’s restaurant!
WALDVOGEL – Restaurant & Bar
Senningerfeld 61-70, 5733 Bramberg
Mon-Sat 5:30 -10 pm, Sun 7:30 am – 3 pm
Tel.: +43/(0)6566/201 42